 Primula sieboldii |
That primula is not more widely grown by gardeners in this region is very unfortunate. Choosing the right species or hybrid, along with the correct location in the garden, can provide a wealth of easily grown, dependable, foliage and flower. Hosta fanciers, in particular, should be appreciative of primula. The two sections listed here make wonderful companions for hosta.
Primula will survive and bloom in less than ideal conditions, but for best performance in the garden, a bit of preparation before planting goes a long way toward ensuring success.
Locate your bed where it will receive shade, as these primula are primarily woodland plants. The ideal sun would be an eastern exposure where they will receive morning light. Primula should be protected from the heat and harsh glare of an afternoon exposure.
Woodland primula can be found in a wide range of soils in their native habitats. However, for best performance, some attention should be given to the garden soil before planting. The ubiquitous "moist, well-drained, with humus incorporated" serves well. I would recommend a depth of around eight to twelve inches. Approximately sixty percent of the native soil should be mixed well with humus. Compost, well-rotted straw or chopped leaves and manure are all recommended. I use combinations of whatever is available at the time I am creating the bed. No more work is involved here than would be given to preparation for any other perennial with an appetite.
Mulch is very important to success with primula. A layer of mulch protects the soil from weed seed germination, helps to maintain a cooler root-run and conserves moisture. I use chopped leaves in late fall or early winter, but you can also use compost or any other material that will rot, forming nutrients and humus.
July through August, and into the first part of September, is the trial period for primula in this region. Temperatures are at their zenith and most prolonged. Rain is much less frequent and if we are to receive a period of drought this is the most likely time. Some supplemental watering is recommended during prolonged periods of little or no rainfall.
Every third or fourth year I would suggest lifting and dividing primula. Dig in some fresh compost to renew the nutrients. Primulas are relatively heavy feeders and can deplete resources, leading to less than perfect performance. Dividing and replanting the newest plants in the crown rejuvenates growth, as well as preventing die-out in the crown center. Primula is easily divided by lifting, then shaking or washing away the soil from the roots, and teasing apart the individual plants.
I am not a primula expert and have only been growing them in the garden for about eight years. Every year or so, I try to add one or two species or hybrids new to me. I can make some suggestions on where to begin when purchasing primula, for success in growing them in this area.
Primula vulgaris, or the Primrose, would be my first choice for succeeding with this family of flowers. It is highly adaptable and easily grown. It is available in a wide range of hybrids, color strains and named forms. It was among the first primula planted in my garden, and in spite of my ignorance and abuse, still performs well to this day.
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Primula juliae, in all the named hybrid forms, is a dependable performer. Two named hybrids I enjoy are 'Early Girl', with white petals and yellow eye along with bronzing in the foliage, and 'Jay Jay', a startling red with yellow eye and deep green foliage.
Once you find success with these three, you may want to try some of the double forms and the the gold and silver laced. The Oxlip should do well, and I understand others have had success with the 'Wanda' hybrid. All are within the section Vernales, containing the most popular hybrids and English primroses.
Primula sieboldii, the Japanese woodland primula, was added to my garden a few years ago and new cultivars have been added each succeeding year. A word of caution is in order when planting this primula. No one can have just one in their garden and remain content. Collecting the next, and the next, becomes almost addictive.
P. sieboldii is a highly variable plant that seems to continually reinvent itself in appearance. Many named forms exist that are sold from divisions and seed strains. Bloom color can be from a pristine snow-white to red, pink or blue along with bi-colors. Shape of the bloom can be flat, cup-shaped, or star, with and without frilled and cut petals.
This woodland primula blooms in my garden the later part of April and well into May. When summer temps get too hot and the soil begins to dry, this species goes dormant for the remainder of the year to return next spring.
P. kisoana has preformed well for me for some years now in the garden. It always reminds me of African violets with its hairy pink stems and large fleshy leaves which are also covered with down. Blooms are in a pleasing pink, but I have seen that a white form exists.
Within the Cortusoides section of the genus Primula there are other species to collect along with the two mentioned above. P. polyneura is on my primula lust-list along with P. jesoana, P. geraniifolia and P. saxatilis.
If you have success with a given species of primula, look it up in a good reference book to see which section it is placed within. There will usually be other species described that are closely related enough for you to enjoy with further success in your garden.
Almost any native or non-native spring blooming woodland perennial goes well with primula. Ferns always provide an excellent backdrop for showing off the foliage and flowers of primula. A few of my personal favorites are Uvularia, Trillium, Helleborus, dwarf Hosta and Corydalis.